It was probably the most difficult day and, regarding the relationship to Hari, the ugliest. I couldn't believe my eyes seeing how a local guide is running forward down on the steep valley because "the wind was too strong!".
The path from Thorung Phedi to Thorung La becomes steeper and the locals use it since hundreds of years as the only way to enter and exist Manang with their sheep and yaks herds. Normally the area is blocked by snow starting midd of December til the begin of March, but sometimes this can be happened even during the summer. The only difficulty is the rare air and the long distance between Thorung Phedi and Muktinath, so you have to be prepared for a long day which start very early in the morning in a terrible cold and dark areal. Due to the travel guide, the normal time of walking between the two points is about 6-8 hours. I needed 9 hours and half, without rushing and carrying a too heavy bag pack.
I managed to fall asleep and to have a fragmentated sleep, which it was actually perfect after three nights of insomnia. I had to go outside to the toilet three times a night and I ventured myself from 20°C in my sleeping bag into the -10°C of the room and further to the much colder temperature outside. The darkness in a wild, cold and desolate area becomes a totally different dimension. You feel as you are trapped there between those rocky giants, you feel small, vulnerable, lost, alone, even lonely. It is a different feeling if I compare with the darkness in the middle of the African savannah, where you know that your neighbors are hyenas, lions, cheetahs, elephants and bufallos and you feel being hunted. I felt this once very real, hunted in the darkness from the eyes of a wild buffalo, one of the most feroces animals in Africa.